Rafting Nepal
by Patrick Spinks
When thinking of Nepal, images of Himalayan trekking abound. Certainly
Nepal has peaks to scale, but altitude isn't the only means to adventure
in this mountain kingdom. The same rivers that have helped sculpt the
biggest geographical formations in the world are rushing travellers
to new highs: white water style.
There are many rafting
outfits in Nepal. If staying in the Thamel area of Katmandu, you will
find the company touts to be a little annoying at first, hounding you
at every corner. Generally these sales people are other Westerners working
in Nepal for a few months (many work out of head offices in London,
leaving briefly to meet Nepali visa requirements), so they are hard
to spot in a crowd and avoid. Some companies use lures (free rum and
cokes) to entice you into rafting, or at least attending their presentation.
Industry competition
forces rafting companies to offer similar standards and packages, but
attending these meetings is an effective way to glimpse the personalities
of the people offering the tour, as well as the type of other rafters.
If spending a few days with these people, be sure you enjoy their company.
Checking between outfitters may turn up deals with last minute cancellations
and reduced prices to fill trip quotas; if patient and tactful in your
approach, savings can be found.
A five day rafting
trip on the Khali Ghandaki River with all food included is likely to
cost $200-250 (CDN.). Packages often include accommodation before and
after the trip, or they may substitute a bus ride back to Katmandu for
the post-trip hotel. Deals offered depend on the relationship an outfit
has with particular hotel owners, and how badly they need to fill a
trip quota.
Our tour of the Khali
Ghandaki river began three hours outside of Pohkara, which we reached
after an exhilarating ride. Just outside of Pohkara, our trip leader
yelled "Roof Party" and everyone climbed out the windows of
our moving bus, scaling on to the roof as we navigated roads that still
arouse terror in my memory. The roads, congested with cows, carts, bicycles
and pedestrians all trying to circumnavigate enormous potholes, were
barely large enough for two normal vehicles to pass (the loser plunging
200m into the valleys below), yet our intrepid driver had no fear of
passing large vehicles with oncoming traffic racing towards us. Some
things are better left unseen.
When ordered by a police
checkpoint to stay inside the bus, our group leader was fined, stirring
a debate since Nepalese ride on the roof with impunity. When it was
understood that the fine was only $2, we paid quite happily, only to
climb back on the roof around the corner. I offered to cover the next
fine.
Life on the river made
for an envious existence. Waking soon after sunrise, the call to breakfast
stirred everyone from their sleep on the sandy beaches. Eating porridge,
eggs or pancakes in the morning sun, belongings were then packed into
drysacks and loaded on the rafts. Soon we were on the water alternating
between relaxing floats and thunderous rapids.
Each 15 foot raft carried
eight passengers and one guide, with gear stored in waterproof barrels
strapped on the middle as we sat around the outside of the vessel, feet
under the safety straps, blindly obeying the commands we learned on
our orientation paddle.
Rest stops offer a
chance to see local villages, and meet the children as they come running
from everywhere. Nepalese offer warm smiles and the greeting of "Namaste"
(greeting the God within you). The friendly curiosity of the children,
and their ability to name in English the pictures I drew in the sand
made these visits memorable and entertaining experiences.
The valley walls varied
from a dense green forest canopy to steep rock faces with waterfalls
cascading down their surface. Our experience rafting on the Khali Ghandaki
offered us a view of rural Nepal: simple mountain villages where the
rivers are a central part of life. Rivers are used for washing, drinking,
catching food, and returning the dearly departed to their spiritual
realm (bodies are cremated or set to float in the river as part of burial
rites). We witnessed Brahman ceremonies taking place on the rivers at
dawn, and we were each blessed by a local priest in a ceremony prior
to our descent of the most dangerous rapid: the Coffee Pot.
Our pace quickening
as the roar of the water filled our ears, we braced our feet under the
safety strap in the boat. With only our guide, and the blessings of
the river gods to get us safely through these turbulent waters, I leaned
into my paddle, expending everything into helping our raft through the
treacherous waves. Thrashed about, and absolutely drenched, we emerged
safely into calm waters, our wet faces beaming with delight in the hot
afternoon sun.
Yes, Nepal may have
the biggest mountains in the world, but the rivers are becoming a powerful
attraction for adventurous travellers. Hooked on the excitement, I continued
on a three day kayaking tour of the Seti river, perfect for first time
kayakers: calm, warm waters with increasing challenges as confidence
builds. So whether you are an experienced white water junkie or a first
time floater, interested in kayaking or rafting, Nepal has experiences
to suits all tastes.
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