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Backcountry B.C.:
Stein Valley Nlaka'pamux Heritage Park
by Patrick Spinks
Photos by Lynda Fletcher-Gordon
For centuries the Stein
Valley area has had special significance for native peoples as a traditional
hunting and gathering grounds, and a place of spiritual retreat. In
recognition of its ecological and cultural significance, the expansive
wilderness area was designated a wilderness park in 1995, to be jointly
managed by the British Columbia government and the Lytton Indian Band.
A challenging five day
hike through a portion of the Stein offers glimpses of the last unlogged,
intact watershed in B.C. within 160 kilometres of a heavily populated
urban centre (Kamloops). Traversing the entire valley from Lizzie Lake
near Pemberton to the trailhead at Lytton takes 8-10 days, and should
only be attempted by properly equipped parties with extensive backcountry
experience (or a knowledgeable guide). A useful reference to the area
is offered by Gordon White's (1991) "Stein Valley Wilderness Guidebook",
and should be required reading for all parties entering the Stein, particularly
the ethics of backcountry camping.
Day
One: Blowdown
Pass to Cottonwood Junction 13.5 km (4-6 hours) Elevation Change: descent
of 1170 m
Parking at kilometre
seven on the Blowdown Pass logging road, we followed the road up four
kilometres past Blowdown Lake to snow covered saddle at the Pass and
got our first view of the valley we were to enter. The area is windy
as its name suggests, and our weather changed from hot sun to pelting
hail, followed by a relentless downpour within minutes (be prepared).
Side excursions from the pass can include a climb to Gott Peak (about
2 1/2 hours return to the pass) on the north side and Gotcha Peak on
the south (about 3-4 hours return). Views are superb: towering peaks
on the horizons, their snow cover glistening in the sun as it melts,
creating waterways that have carved myriad routes through the rugged
terrain.
An old mining road crosses
the pass and leads into the valley eventually becoming a trail at the
Silver Queen mine turnoff (an abandoned copper mine). From the pass
to the turnoff (5.4 km) is an easy descent past meadows of wildflowers.
However, the following section of trail (from the mine to Cottonwood
Junction) is a labyrinth of deadfall, which makes hiking a slow, cautious
endeavor as you crawl over, under and along fallen trees. Trail clearing
and maintenance are expected to take place in summer, but call B.C.
Parks or the Lytton Visitor Information Centre for updates on the trail
conditions.
Day
Two: to Cottonwood
Camp 8.5 km ( 5-7 hours) Elevation change: descent of 390 m.
Having spent the night
at a forested camp beautifully situated at the confluence of the North
and South arms of Cottonwood Creek, day two followed the now swift moving
current in its dramatic journey to join the Stein. Still lots of deadfall
on the trail, but it was less obstructive than the previous day.
Lured into a false complacency
and a late start reading of the overall elevation decrease, the day
provided some tough hiking, particularly around Cattle Creek and Unnecessary
Knob. Resting and eating at Cattle Creek before the climb is a good
idea (lightens the load). There are good views of the upper Stein just
before descending to the river. The wide U shaped valley is a perfect
example of the glacial activity that helped shape the area, and the
densely forested hillsides show the rich fertility of the valley soil.
Cottonwood Camp is located
where the creek meets the Stein river, after its plunge over Cottonwood
Falls. There are tent sites near the river for morning sun, and some
in the forest for rain cover. With an outhouse, bear cache and cooking
area, this camp is an excellent layover spot for parties with an extra
day wanting to explore the upper valley or rest. Cottonwood Falls are
a ten minute walk up the creek.
Day
Three: to Ponderosa
Creek 8.3 km (4 hours)
Finally the deadfall
disappears and the trail becomes more obvious. Watch for the centuries
old stands of Cottonwood the area was named for. The light green leaves
of the Cottonwood shine in the sun and contrast with their pale gray
bark; this is a peaceful spot for a rest. If you have allergies, Cottonwoods
release massive amounts of pollen in late May and June. Carry some effective
antihistamine (I find they work best starting them one day before entering
the area).
Mid-valley, the Stein
is a wide, peaceful looking river like something you could navigate
on a riverboat or air mattress. The river's calm appearance is deceptive
and hides the vast volumes of water flowing by. Despite the heat, we
chose not to swim in the dangerous currents.
The ecosystem changes
from a damp subalpine forest with fir, cedar and pine, to a drier climate,
through groves of cottonwood but predominantly forested by pines. The
trail is clearly marked and presents no obstacles, although some of
the traverses over rocky slopes could be treacherous in wet weather.
Day
Four: to Earl's
Cabin 7.8 km (3-5 hours)
Not the most attractive
of camps, Ponderosa camp is situated rather far from the river, although
many camp at the shelter next to the river. The mosquitoes are relentless,
as they are in most parts west of this, easing off as the area gets
hotter and drier. Repellent (95% DEET recommended; a veil may be useful
for those who cannot take heavy doses of deet), clothes that cover your
skin and mosquito coils to burn around the camp are helpful.
An excellent (though
strenuous) day hike for those wanting more views is to climb Victoria
Ridge from Ponderosa camp. Be prepared with a good map of the area and
the necessary route finding skills, as this trail receives little use.
Total elevation gain is approximately 1400 metres, although there is
a lookout halfway for those not wanting to do the full climb.
The walk from Ponderosa
Camp to Earl's Cabin provides a relaxing change from the previous days
with plenty of time for rest stops by the river. Those looking to shorten
the hike by a day can, instead of stopping at Ponderosa camp, push on
for another two hours to a peaceful riverside spot in the forest just
before the lower cable car crossing, then go out to the trailhead the
next day.
Watch for Klein's cabin,
a relic of a trappers shack used in the early 1930's, visible across
the river. The cable car crossing is another significant landmark (and
the only such crossing on the lower Stein). There is a large camp with
a toilet and bear cache on the south side of the river.
From the cable car,
another hour of flat trail reaches a peaceful meadow opening just before
Earl's cabin (another trapper's shack) where there are more camp facilities
and fewer mosquitoes due to a good wind. Drinking water has a lot of
debris stirred up by the now thundering Stein.
Day
Five: to Park
Entrance 8 km (4 hours); to Lytton 15 km (5 1/2 hours)
This last day is a beautiful
hike out through a forest scented by Ponderosa and Lodgepole pine, with
the Stein River raging through the canyon to the north. The forest has
thinned making for more sunlight and better views over the river as
it roars over endless rapids (this is Class V + water). The lower Stein
receives many visitors (most on day hikes) and the trail is well trodden
and obvious, except where it braids amongst the Cedar and Douglas Fir
groves.
Look for culturally
modified trees, usually cedars where the bark has been removed by natives
for weaving clothing and baskets. The trees have notches cut out of
them where the bark was removed (often on the eastern side of trees,
which receives the morning sun earliest, and is thought to repair itself
more quickly).
Other cultural sights
not to be missed are the native pictographs located on the west side
of Devil's Staircase. If heading east, just before climbing another
set of steep switchbacks to traverse a rocky talus slope, look for a
trail going down to the river instead of climbing (a fallen tree across
the path distinguishes this from the real route). These images, preserved
on the north face of a canyon wall, are evidence of the native settlements
and culture that have thrived in the area for centuries. Do not touch
the pictographs, which are starting to fade. May as well leave your
pack at the fallen log; despite how tempting the lure of a low road
avoiding the steep climb may be, there is no shortcut continuing through
from the pictographs.
Teepee camp is a major
landmark that makes for a nice lunch spot on the last day, with the
trailhead being about 1 1/2 hours away. Caution: there are no services
at the trailhead. No Phone, no water, and no public transport into Lytton,
which is another seven kilometres along a dusty but pleasantly undulating
road.
Places like the Stein
Valley are important for the diversity of plant and animal life they
support: a living testament to nature's wonder.
Vegetation
In the eastern
Stein Valley (near Lytton) the increased sunlight in the sparse pine
forests support various shrubs and grasses including sagebrush, cheatgrass
and knapweed. Wildflowers blossom from April to June with yellow bell,
sage buttercup, and larkspur appearing first and others such as chocolate
lily and three flowered avens blooming later. A variety of lichens cover
the trees and boulders in the lower canyon.
The central valley offers
more variety in forest composition. Douglas fir is dominant, particularly
at lower elevations and near the river, but Western Red cedar, Englemann
Spruce and Western White pine are also present, becoming more common
in the western parts of the valley. A grove of impressive Cottonwoods
lies north of the cable car crossing, with Birch, Aspen and Western
Yew scattered amongst the tall conifers. These rich forests also include
shrubs such as Snowberry, Ocean Spray and Western Trumpet Honeysuckle.
As well as travel corridors for wildlife, the mid valley forests, with
their low snowfall, serve as an important winter habitat for animals.
The upper valley, which
sees abundant precipitation, has a moss carpeted floor and a dense forest
canopy. Mixed stands of Spruce, Hemlock, Cedar and Fir are characteristic
of 'coastal' forests. In the moist areas of the northern Stein river,
and below Stein Lake, Pacific Silver and Amabilis Fir, and Western Hemlock
are present; these stands of original forest are becoming a rarity in
B.C., offering further testament to the ecological value of the Stein.
The subalpine forests that serve as a transition zone between the lower
elevation forests and the barren alpine terrain, house sparsely forested
Englemann and Montaine Spruce, Lodgepole Pine, Amabilis and Douglas
Fir and the occasional Western Hemlock.
Above treeline, which
occurs between 1620 m and 1890 m, the severe environmental conditions
limit vegetation to a few specialized, stunted (>1m high) trees known
as krummholz trees (German for bent wood). These include Whitebark Pine,
Subalpine Fir, Englemann Spruce, and Mountain Hemlock. Some of these
trees grow for hundreds of years and one branch may take decades to
grow, so tread carefully in their presence. Other alpine vegetation
includes heather meadows and colourful lichens. Wildflowers such as
avalanche lilies, western anemone, and spring beauty appear on moderate,
moist slopes that have deeper soil.
Animals
The bio-diversity
of the Stein is also evidenced by the more than 50 mammalian species
present. Smaller mammals, such as the four species of shrew (insectivores,
resembling mice with long pointed noses, which consume their weight
in food each day), mice, voles and lemmings (mouse-like rodents primarily
found in meadows, fields and forests), serve as important food sources
for predator birds and larger carnivores such as coyotes, cougar, lynx,
bobcat, and bear.
Larger ungulates such
as moose, mule deer, mountain goats and mountain sheep are also very
common, sustaining the population of wolves and cougar that hunt the
larger mammals. Black bears and grizzlies, both omnivores, are present
in the valley, and contrary to popular conceptions (and fear) of their
carnivore status, a diet of roots, grubs and insects makes up the bulk
of their nourishment
In addition to birds
of prey such as Sharp Shinned hawks, Merlins and Barred owls which hunt
small birds, mammals, insects and lizards, the Stein has several ground
dwelling birds such as Ruffled Grouse, Blue Grouse and White Tailed
Ptarmigan which feed on insects, seeds and berries. There are several
species of warbler, chickadee and nuthatches, and once attuned to their
calls, the constant buzz of activity in the Stein becomes apparent,
shattering any conceptions about how quiet the forest is.
The Stein River is home
to six known fish species. Rainbow and Steelhead trout, Dolly Varden
char, Mountain whitefish, and Pink, Coho, and Chinook salmon, all members
of the salmonid family, can be found in the waters of the Stein. Between
the mouth of the river and the lower canyon, non-salmonid species such
as Peamonth Chub, Northern Squawfish, Longnose and Leopard dace may
be seen, and it is in this part of the river that Pink salmon spawn.
Small runs (less than 100) of Steelhead, Chinook and Coho migrate to
the mid Stein (between Earl and Nesbitt Creeks) to spawn in the well
aerated, uniform size gravel. The mid Stein provides an excellent nursery
area for young fish, with rocks and gravel providing the most common
fish food: aquatic insect larvae. Numerous side channels, pools and
quiet waters behind boulders provide resting spots for young fish. Those
interested in observing fish should wear a pair of polarizing sun glasses
to minimize glare from the water, visit during spawning season (late
summer to fall), and move slowly near the water to avoid disturbing
the fish.
Native Culture
The Stein valley,
an ecological treasure preserving a diversity of plant and animal life,
is also an area of significant cultural value. Evidence indicates the
presence of humans dating back 6500 years. A dependable salmon stream
with accessible hunting and gathering areas, the Stein provided an ideal
settlement location for the Nlaka'pamux. The moderate climate in the
rainshadow of the coastal mountains and the abundant food supply have
contributed to this being one of oldest continuously inhabited settlements
in North America.
An important part of
native adolescent development was a strong understanding or bond with
nature. On their quest for spiritual guidance, youths would climb to
a prominent peak or lookout, then fast, dance and sing themselves to
exhaustion. Falling into a dream state, a guardian spirit would then
reveal itself. For some, this isolation in the wilderness would last
many months, perhaps a year before such guidance and identity were found.
Evidence of these cultural rituals exists in the form of pictographs
preserved in caves and on the north faces of some cliffs in the lower
valley. There is one of these pictograph walls about 800 yards from
the Lytton trailhead (sometimes offerings of sweetgrass, tobacco and
money -bundled together- are placed there: Do Not Disturb). The presence
of these pictographs, and remains of the Nlaka'pamuk winter 'pit houses'
(large homes built deep into the ground that held an average of 15 to
30 people) helped draw attention to the rich cultural heritage of the
Stein, and combined with pressure from native and environmental groups,
the area was declared a provincial park.
Trees of the Stein
Cottonwood trees
were used by the Nlaka'pamux for making dugout canoes and smoking fish;
the buds (which look like cotton) were collected, heated, then squeezed
to produce a glue for attaching feathers and arrowheads to arrows, and
sealing cracks in canoes.
Getting there and
beyond:
The Stein Valley
is situated in some of the most pristine wilderness in British Columbia.
Our suggested itinerary for a five day traverse allows two car parties
to experience the mid to lower Stein with a one way hike. The lower
Stein Valley is accessed from Lytton B.C. in the Fraser Canyon, and
the upper and mid valley are accessed via the Duffey Lake Highway between
Pemberton and Lillooet (a must see area for anyone visiting B.C.).
We left one car in the
town of Lytton, and continued around to Lillooet before starting the
trail the next morning. The Visitor Information Centre in Lytton has
some useful park maps, and Peggy Chute, the friendly manager, is very
knowledgeable about the area. She may have information on trail conditions
and suggestions for safe parking places. For trail information, contact
the Parks Department in Kamloops (250-851-3000). The upper valley remains
officially closed due to extensive fire damage and windfall risks, but
they will tell you what the last reported conditions are like.
Just outside of Lytton,
a reaction ferry transports vehicles two at a time across the Fraser
River between the hours of 6:30 a.m. and 10:15 p.m., with coffee breaks
at 9:15 a.m., 12:45 p.m. and 8:45 p.m., and meal breaks at 10:30 a.m.
and 6:30 p.m. The service is free as the ferry is part of B.C. Highways.
Turn right from the ferry and go 4 km north (you'll see signs for 'Stein
Valley Park').
Highway 12 follows the
historic Fraser River north from Lytton to Lillooet, where turning south
on Highway 99 will bring you to Blowdown Pass logging road (roughly
50 km). The turnoff is just before Duffey Lake. Forestry campsites in
the area (although no longer free) provide a convenient place to sleep
before tackling the Stein. Cayoosh Creek Campsite is the closest, just
north of the Blowdown Pass road.
There is no trailhead
per se, and with a high clearance 4WD you could, in the dry season,
make it up and over the pass (and down to the mines). Our 2WD vehicle
was happy to give the washout at km 7 a miss, so we added the four km
walk to Blowdown Pass to our five day traverse.
Variations:
1)hike
in from Lytton then double back after a few days.
2)park at Blowdown Pass, hike to Lytton, then bus home (Greyhound
service runs twice a day $34.99) and return for your car later.
3) Passenger trains from North Vancouver to Prince George stop
at Lillooet (64$), then hitch or cab to the trailhead. Note: Lillooet
taxi will charter a taxi bus to the trailhead for $60/hour. Roughly
50 km. south of town, the trip will likely cost ($80-100, paying for
half the return trip).
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