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Backcountry Getaways in the Rockies
by Markus Kellerhals
Craving a spring outing in the Rockies - but don't want to face the
rigors of backcountry camping? Then a trip to one of the many retreats in
the Canadian Rockies may be in order. These huts provide rustic but cozy
accommodations within most budgets.
Most of the huts are owned and operated by the Alpine Club of Canada (ACC). Though many were originally designed and located with summer mountaineering in mind, several are also ideally situated for ski-touring and snowshoeing. In fact, some of the cabins have become more popular during the winter and spring seasons rather than summer. Most are within one day's hike from the road and offer a convenient base for a couple of days of exploration. By the standard of Coast Range huts, most of the Rockies facilities are positively luxurious: many are outfitted with wood stoves, lanterns, cook-stoves, cooking utensils and sleeping pads.
Visitors who aren't up to backpacking to the huts can get a similar experience by staying in one of the hostels along the Icefields Parkway. The hostels offer basic accommodation at a reasonable rates.
Below are some of the premier backcountry huts in the Rockies, as well
as two front-country hostels. More details about the tours available
from these huts can be found in "Summits and Icefields" and "Ski Trails
in the Canadian Rockies", two guidebooks by Chic Scott. The topographic
map reference(s) for each area is included at the end of each description.
Elizabeth Parker Hut - Lake O'Hara
In the shadow of giants. Lake O'Hara is ringed by some of the most
impressive peaks of the Rockies - four 11000 foot peaks and numerous
smaller summits. The hut is reached via an easy 12 kilometre ski along
the summer access road (not plowed in winter) off of the Trans Canada
Highway, west of Lake Louise. Much of the spectacular terrain around
Lake O'Hara is too steep and rugged for skiing. McCarthur Pass is a simple and scenic tour. A venture to Opabin Pass gets you into the high alpine region. (82N/8).
Stanley Mitchell Hut - Little Yoho Valley
If skiing perfect slopes in a remote, scenic valley bores you, then stay
away from the Stanley Mitchell Hut. Hidden away in the Yoho Park
backcountry, north of Field, this cabin is one of the premier backcountry
skiing destinations in the Rockies. But first you have to pay the
price.
The approach to Stanley Mitchell is 23 km long - a long day for most
skiers. Once at the hut your efforts will be amply repaid. Numerous
tours lead out from the hut to surrounding cols and glaciers. The tour
to President Pass provides an outstanding 700 metre descent at a
consistent angle. Closer to the hut you'll find excellent glade skiing.
(82N/7, 82N/8, 82N/9, 82N/10).
Wates-Gibson Hut - Tonquin Valley
The Ramparts, a 12 km long wall of serrated peaks, are the scenic
centerpiece of Jasper's famous Tonquin Valley. Tucked beneath one end
of the Ramparts is the Wates-Gibson Hut, a perfect destination for a few
days or a week. There are two approaches to the hut, both are quite long treks starting just south of Jasper. Getting to the hut is a big effort, but skiing beneath the Ramparts on a clear day more than compensates. From the cabin there are easy scenic tours below the Ramparts and steeper, equally scenic tours in the peaks south of the cabin. In the immediate vicinity of the cabin are small ski slopes through open trees. (83D/9).
Wapta Icefields
Located on the Continental Divide northwest of Lake Louise, the Wapta
Icefields are one of Canada's most popular ski-mountaineering
destinations. A large part of that popularity can be attributed to the
excellent system of huts that service the area. From north to south there
is Peyto Hut, Bow Hut, Balfour Hut and Scott Duncan Hut. Most visitors
to the Wapta link up the huts to form a traverse ranging in length from
a few days to a week. Along the way there are any number of slopes to
be skied and peaks to be climbed. Except for the start and finish the
tour is entirely above tree-line, and much of the route is on glaciers.
Needless to say this is not a tour for novice skiers. Peyto and Bow
Huts are also frequently visited either as destinations in themselves or
as bases for a few days touring or mountaineering. (82N/8, 82N/9, 82N/10).
Lawrence Grassi Hut - Clemenceau Icefield
This hut is situated in a remote part of the Rockies, west of the
Columbia Icefields, far from any roads or trails. The Grassi Hut is a
destination for either the serious wilderness lover or the seriously
anti-social. Only a handful of parties have ever actually skied to the
hut, the majority of visitors helicopter in, stay and ski for a week or so and helicopter back out. Not for the faint of wallet! The hut is surrounded by big glaciers and high peaks, including Mount Clemenceau, the fourth highest in the Rockies. The ski ascent of Clemenceau is the prize here, but there's endless scope for other tours and ascents.
Mosquito Creek Hostel - Icefields Parkway
The Mosquito Creek Hostel is located just off the Icefields Parkway, 26
km north of Lake Louise. In contrast to some of the backcountry huts,
getting here is easy: park your car in the lot and carry your bags
inside. Within a few kilometres of Mosquito Creek there are dozens of
tours and slopes to ski. Some of the most popular destinations are the
slopes at Bow Summit, Cirque Mountain and Mount Hector. You can also
ski right from the hostel up Mosquito Creek to Molar Meadows.
Hilda Creek Hostel - Icefields Parkway
Further north along the Icefields Parkway - 120 km north of Lake Louise
- is Hilda Creek Hostel. The hostel is situated just below tree line between Parker Ridge and Hilda Ridge - two outstanding ski slopes. Getting to the slopes is easy here - exit the hostel and start skiing. Touring to Wilcox Pass offers superb views of the peaks of the Columbia Icefield.
If You Go:
Most of the areas discussed above are suitable for telemark skis, alpine
touring skis or even snowshoes. Avalanche transceivers, shovels and
probes should be basic equipment on Rockies winter trips. Basic knowledge of avalanche hazard, and avalanche rescue procedures is also essential. For tours that involve glacier travel, a knowledge of crevasse rescue along with the appropriate equipment (ropes harness, ascenders, pulleys etc.) is essential.
Reservations are needed for all stays in the ACC huts mentioned above.
Call the ACC at (403) 678-3200 for information and bookings.
The hostels accept drop-in visitors if there is space, but reservations
are recommended. Call the Southern Alberta Hostelling Association at (403) 762-4122.
The ski season in the Rockies generally runs from late November and through May.
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