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Trekking Northern Spain
Article and Photos by Claire Mulligan
In 1130 a French monk, Aymeric Picaud, wrote The Book of the Pilgrimage,
what is thought to be the world's first travel guide. The Book warned of
bandits, deadly drinking water, con-artists, unfriendly towns, and
impassable rivers. His work provided advice for the multitude of pilgrims
(up to half million a year by the 12th century) making their way over the
French Pyrenees and across northern Spain to Santiago de Compostela to see
the alleged remains of St. James, one of the twelve apostles.
Nowadays El Camino de Santiago or The Way of St. James is a daunting
700-900 kilometre trek, but provides an invitation to be part of a great
historic tradition. The route is safe and well-marked, leading through
numerous micro-climates in seven provinces and always to the doors of
the albergues or guest houses along the way.
Despite the religious history of the pilgrimage, people of all faiths
walk the route. In recent years, Spain, along with the European Union,
have been promoting the route, known as the Camino francés, making it
more accessible for travellers with six weeks to spare and an
appreciation for the culture and history of the pilgrimage. The Camino
francés (the majority of pilgrims have been historically French) has
always been the most popular and well marked route, and is the one
described here. However, there are other, less well-travelled routes,
most notably along the northern coast, from Southern Spain or
Portugal.
St. Jean-Pied-de-Port on the French side of the Pyrenees and
Roncesvalles on the Spanish side are popular starting points, but the trek
can start anywhere along the route. Essential to the tradition is
collecting a pilgrim's passport. Local churches supply these at a
nominal cost. The passport provides proof that you completed the minimum 100
kilometres on foot (200 km by bike) to receive your 'Compostela', or
certificate of completion, from the pilgrim's office in Santiago. The
Compostela is a continuation of a medieval tradition, where it was proof of
piety and accomplishment, particularly necessary for those people sent on
the pilgrimage as penance for a crime.
The route transforms from broad and gravelly to rugged and narrow,
following asphalt lanes and the breath-taking remains of Roman roads and
bridges. Guidebooks, with cyclists in mind, often show stages in two
alternatives: along the highway or through the countryside. Whenever
possible, take the countryside, even if it means adding a few
kilometres. Locals often recommend the highway route, giving dire warnings
of mud and steep inclines. The paths, however, are much more
scenic and are invariably well-maintained. And for anyone who has hiked
in Canada, the grades are not daunting.
The route begins in the high, chilly passes of the Pyrenees, the most
difficult part of the trek. Forests of oak and pine give way to
chestnut, beech and poplar before reaching the rolling, vineyard covered
hills of Navarra and La Rioja. Outside the town of Estella a pilgrim
fountain pours red wine (yes, for free). Entering the province of Burgos
the landscape becomes drier and flatter. In the area, many towns grew up
entirely because of the pilgrimage.
The high, flat mesetas stretch for nearly 200 kilometres between the
cities of Burgos and León. Canyons and small valleys are evident at
first, but soon enough it is only vistas of cornfields interspersed
with small, poor towns. Don't miss the exquisite cathedral in León with
its 185 stained glass windows (compared to the usual 5 or 6).
After León the landscape becomes green again with heather in abundance.
Wind, mist and rain can make crossing the Leonese Mountains
difficult for the unprepared. Here abandoned stone villages provide an
eerie, Gothic beauty. In one of these, Manjarín, be certain to visit a
very unusual and rustic refugio /albergue run by a man who calls himself
the last of the Knights Templars.
This is the entrance to Galicia which contains the provinces of Lugo and
La Coruña. Networks of low stone walls separate fields so green and lush
they glow. Villages of grey slate are awash in cow dung. The area is reminiscent
of Ireland, and the Celtic influence is pervasive here (just listen to the
bagpipes in traditional Galician music). Soon you pass through the corredoiras,
spectacular tunnels formed of stone walls, ferns, oak, and chestnut trees. In places
they double as picturesque streambeds, and large flagstones placed to
help you navigate often save you from soaking feet.
At last you arrive in Santiago de Compostela, a picturesque ancient town
full of winding, pedestrian-only streets, and shops with every pilgrim
souvenir imaginable. At noon each day the pilgrim's mass begins at the
Cathedral. This is worth attending no matter what your spiritual
leanings, if only to see the swinging of the enormous censor before the
vast golden tomb of
Santiago himself.
A bishop and ten priests officiate to a capacity crowd, most are elderly
Spanish who have come by bus. Those who have walked to Santiago are
obvious enough. Weathered and pack-laden, they are busy greeting and
congratulating others they have met along the way. Some carry on to the
beach of Finis Terrae (the End of the Earth) 60 km further and pick up a
scallop shell as did pilgrims of old (shells are a common symbol and
trail marker along the routes). The route is still marked but albergues
are few. For the weary or time-constrained, buses run regularly.
In these days of rapid transportation, The Way of St. James is reminder
of how foot power can take you great distances. It is the closest most
of us can come to emulating those who walk across continents, deserts or
to the Northern Pole. The reasons people do the pilgrimage are singular,
but they can count themselves as living an experience shared by
millions.
Religious History:
Variations exist on the legend of how St. James wound up in a
rain-soaked corner of north-eastern Spain. However, all agree that in
the year 812 a star guided a pious shepherd to the apostle's final resting
place. At that time the Moors had conquered most of Spain and this
'discovery' became a major source of inspiration for the beleaguered Christians. For
was not St. James himself now leading them? Wasn't he clearly seen riding a
great white horse into the midst of battle, slaughtering Moors by the
thousands with a heavenly sword? And so St James had his first incarnation
as Santiago Matamoros, the Moor-slayer.
On the route, representations of the warrior James on his white horse
abound, as do the later representations of St. James the pilgrim. Here he wears
the standard medieval pilgrim outfit: long heavy cape, staff with gourd
attached for carrying water, and a large wide-brimmed hat. Scallop shells, a major icon of the
pilgrimage, appear in any number on both cape and hat. That the latter
representation shows him travelling to worship at his own tomb is one of the
many quirky and somewhat macabre notes about the pilgrimage.
Don't forget your passport:
The passport also allows you to use the system of pilgrim's albergues.
Spaced a usual day's hike apart (15-25 km), the albergues hark back to
the medieval system of 'hospitals' that provided shelter for weary
pilgrims. Not be confused with hostals, which in Spain refers to small,
privately owned hotels, the cost per night is never more than a donation
of $3-5 CAD. Most have communal kitchens, all have co-ed dorms.
Given a few exceptions, parochial albergues are the most historic, often
situated within monasteries and convents. Private albergues are the
cosiest. And new municipal albergues, although they have all the
amenities, are the least interesting. The religious element is kept to a
minimum with usually only a listing for mass at the local church. Lights
out is between 10 -11 p.m; checkout 8 -8:30 a.m.
The albergues run on a priority system. Those on foot with packs are
first. Those with support vehicles, on bikes or in groups have to wait
until later evening to check-in. For more privacy, hostals, pensions,
and hotels are easy to find.
When to Go:
Fall and spring preferably. The summer heat can be devastating,
and the route and accomodation crowded. Trekkers would be well advised to
carry a tent and sleeping mat.
Budget:
Flights to Madrid cost $1100 CAD from Vancouver. Buses from Santiago to Madrid are $50
CAD. Buses are generally cheaper and faster than trains.
Accommodation for pensions and hostals ranges from $20 to $40 for a
double room without private bath. Students with international student
cards get significant discounts on entrances to museums and monuments.
Food:
In Northern Spain food is simply prepared and heavy on meat. Most
restaurants and bars have a Menu del Dia: three courses including bread,
wine, and tax for $9-12 CAD. Generally food costs are similar to Canada.
Most businesses (except bars) close for siesta between @ 2 p.m to 5 p.m
Safety:
Most people walk in pairs or alone. Solo women seem to encounter few
problems. Theft is rare.
Books
Guidebooks about the pilgrimage difficult to find in Canada and
the Internet offers a poor selection. However, books are available in St.
Jean Pied-de-Port and at any larger town along the route. Not all have been
translated in English, but of the ones that have, Professor Millán Bravo
Lozano's A Practical Guide for Pilgrim's is the most learned.
Cycling
This popular way to do the pilgrimage takes much less time. Most
albergues have bicycle lock-ups. The drawback is spending more time on
the highway, as some paths are inaccessible. Guide books for cyclists
are available along the route.
What to bring:
Keep it simple. If you 'over-prepare' you can always send a package
on to Santiago and to pick it up later.
Sleeping Bag: albergues provide a mattress only
Hiking boots: lightweight waterproof
Walking sandals
First aid kit (Note that doctors are often available for pilgrims free
of charge)
Quick dry clothes/Rain poncho (Fleece and jacket outside of summer)
Swiss army knife
Water bottle: bottled water is readily available though Spanish tap
water is fine. Fountains are common and generally safe, though be wary
in areas with lots of farm animals.
Spanish Phrasebook: English is spoken by very few people in Northern
Spain, but they are patient with attempts. |
