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Rain Shadow Biking: Cycle Touring around Lillooet
by Markus Kellerhals
The town of Lillooet, two hundred kilometres northeast
of Vancouver, is the jump-off point for some of the best biking in
southwest BC.
Lillooet lies deep in the Fraser Canyon at an
elevation of only 250 metres, surrounded by mountains rising to over 2700 metres. Thanks to its location on the east side of the Coast Mountains, Lillooet is sheltered from most of the rain that drenches the western slopes.
The Lillooet area has a vast variety of biking routes. There are paved roads, gravel backroads, double track and single track rides. Some rides stick to the dry grassland country along the Fraser River, others lead high into alpine meadows, crossing entire mountain ranges. Perhaps the only common feature among Lillooet rides is the hills.
Nearly all the rides feature a significant elevation gain, whether it comes as many small ups and downs or one monster hill. Although many of the best rides around Lillooet can be done as day trips, one of the unique features of the Lillooet area is that several great rides can be linked up to make superb multi-day tours.
One of my favourite rides in the area is a three-day loop starting in Lillooet, ascending the Yalakom valley, up and over China Head
Mountain, and back to Lillooet along the Fraser River. Though the distance of this trip is modest, the elevation statistics are quite impressive.
From Lillooet we climb 2000 metres to the top of China Head Mountain plus at least half that again on many smaller hills. The route starts out along the main road to Goldbridge, following first the Fraser, then the dry canyon of the Bridge River. At the mouth of the Bridge River we stop to watch salmon attempting to swim up the powerful Bridge River Rapids, an amazing spectacle that can be seen in the late summer.
Several kilometres up the Bridge River we turn north, following a logging road along the Yalakom valley. Our first campsite is in a meadow beside the clear stream of the Yalakom River.
At the head waters of the Yalakom our route leads us through immense clearcuts, one of the less scenic features of the
route. Though the Lillooet area has lots of wilderness, logging and road building is proceeding rapidly throughout the region. A coalition of conservation, recreation and community groups have been working to preserve some wilderness areas in the region, including the South Chilcotin Mountains and some areas around the Yalakom River.
We happily leave the main logging road to follow a winding double track through meadows to Davey Jones Creek. From Davey Jones
Creek we climb steep loose gravel to reach the alpine plateau of
China Head Mountain. The ride across China Head is one of the highlights - our route undulates along the ridge, treating us to superb views of Nine-Mile Ridge and the Shulaps Range. All too soon we drop off the far end of China Head Mountain, descending steeply towards the Fraser River. Our descent takes us from alpine meadows through pine and spruce forest and finally into sagebrush country along the Fraser. We camp that night beside Watson Bar Creek.
In the morning, rather than follow the main forestry road back to Lillooet, we descend Watson Bar Creek to the Fraser River where we pick up an abandoned ranch road that runs along the Fraser. Loaded down as we are with overnight gear, this section is tough riding. The old road is sandy and overgrown with sage. In places, the road is just a narrow track etched into the steep valley sides. A fall here is not an option as it will precipitate a long painful tumble straight into the Fraser River.
Since the Fraser River is one of BC’s major transportation corridors, there isn’t a lot of wilderness left along the river, but this stretch still feels wild. With the exception of the track we follow, there are no roads on either side of the river. Along this 30-kilometre stretch we pass one lonely ranch. Beyond the ranch we have another big climb out of the valley and back to the forestry road. Our trip ends with a flying descent back down to the Bridge River and Lillooet.
Another great ride, short but steep, is the Hurley Silver Mine Road.
This logging and mining road takes off from the Duffey Lake Road 45 km from Lillooet. It climbs unrelentingly into a high alpine basin in the Cayoosh Range. The route begins as a substantial logging road, then gradually degenerates into a rough double track.
From the end of the road it’s worth walking a short distance to the top of the basin, which is also the divide of the Cayoosh Range. Mountain goats can frequently be sighted on the nearby slopes. Enjoy the scenery up top because on the way down you won’t have much time to appreciate it. Watch out that your rims don’t catch fire!
Opposite the Hurley Silver Mine, on the other side of the Duffey Lake Road you’ll find the trailhead for Blowdown Pass. This strenuous ride follows an old mining road to a high alpine pass.
One of the mellower rides in the region follows a gravel road along the west bank of the Fraser River from Lillooet to Lytton. The road meanders through dry pasture and forests of ponderosa pine and Douglas fir. Irrigated fields stand out, their luminous green contrasting with the surrounding dry landscape. There are superb views down to the Fraser River and across to mountains on the other side. At Lytton the crossing of the Fraser is achieved on a tiny one-car ferry. For a longer ride it is possible to return to Lillooet via the main road on the east side of the Fraser.
Whatever ride you choose, you are guaranteed to find great scenery and un-crowded trails.
If you go:
Lillooet is 260 km from Vancouver via the Duffey Lake Road and 170 km from Kamloops via Highways 1, 97, and 99. An alternate route to Lillooet is via the BC Railway line from North Vancouver. The railway also makes it possible to organize one way trips to or from Lillooet without the hassle of shuttles.
Greg Maurer’s "Mountain Bike Adventures in Southwest
BC" describes a number of excellent rides around Lillooet and in the South Chilcotins area west of Lillooet. "The Four Wheeler’s Companion" by Mark Bostwick, though obviously not targeted at cyclists, also has useful information on backroads in the Lillooet area. Maurer’s book lists all the topo maps you need for each tour. Buy these maps in advance as they likely won’t be available in Lillooet. The Forest Service in Lillooet has maps that show many of the major logging roads, and they can also update you on road conditions.
Lillooet has a number of reasonably priced hotels. Camping is available at Cayoosh Creek Campgrounds (250-256-4180) in addition to the BC Hydro site just outside of town and at many sites along the Duffey Lake Road. Once you are out on a ride, informal camping is the rule and suitable sites can be found nearly anywhere.
Gravity Fed Adventures has experienced guides in the area offering heli-biking day trips and mutli-day cabin to cabin rides. 250-256-7947
The biking season around Lillooet runs from March to November for the lower elevation rides such as Lillooet to Lytton and
from late June to October for high elevation rides such as the crossing of China Head Mountain. Considering that Lillooet and Lytton often vie for the title of Canada’s hot spot you may want to avoid the lower elevation rides in summer. At that time of year you are best off seeking higher elevations and cooler temperatures in the Shulaps Range or South Chilcotin Mountains.
BC Adventure Network: Lillooet Page
www.bcadventure.com/adventure/explore/cariboo/cities/lillooet.htm
Lillooet Chamber of Commerce 250-256-4364
BC Rail 800-663-8238 www.bcrail.com
Forest Service - Lillooet Office 250-256-1200
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