Travellers Voice Magazine -- Becoming Sloth-like in Costa Rica

BECOMING SLOTH-LIKE IN COSTA RICA: How a chance meeting on an airplane led to a unique sloth sanctuary on Costa Rica's Caribbean coast
Article & Photos by Janet Younger

"We have a Houdini", cried one of the workers. Immediately visitors and workers alike started combing the bushes and trees for Zephyr, a baby three-toed sloth that had escaped from his cage and made a "run" for it. The smirking, cat-sized creature's bid for freedom was short lived as he was discovered six feet up in a coconut tree. He had traveled surprisingly far in his slow, determined way. Zephyr's adventure added a little excitement to the day I spent at Aviarios del Caribe, a 120-acre wildlife sanctuary on Costa Rica's uncrowded Caribbean coast.

It all started when my travel companion, Linda, and I met Judy Arroyo on the plane from Houston to San José, the capital of Costa Rica. She and her husband Luis own Aviarios del Caribe, which is a sloth rescue and rehabilitation facility, their home and guest lodge.

Costa Rica's Caribbean coast is historically different from the rest of the country. Its early settlers weren't Spaniards, but rumrunners and pirates of mostly British descent. Europeans didn't settle there until the late 1800's when the Atlantic Railroad and Port of Limon were built to support the growing banana and coffee industries. The Caribbeans came as slaves of the English pirates and later as migrants. Their culture and dialect are a large part of the flavor of the Caribbean coast today.

The north east coast of Costa Rica is well known for the waterways and wildlife of Tortuguero National Park. While the beaches and small towns to the south are spectacular and uncrowded, they hardly get a blip on the radar screen of tourism. However, we found the south coast a gem; think of the Caribbean islands without the resort prices. The locals were incredibly friendly and we had our choice of accommodation beside lonely, breathtaking beaches with welcoming Atlantic breezes.

Aviarios del Caribe is a mere three and a half hours by direct bus from San José. Our journey was hampered slightly by a national employees road blockade (one small hazard of visiting the most democratic country in Central America). The sanctuary was truly a paradise-a lush garden with ten shades of green dotted with red hibiscus and purple bougainvillea. The house sat on the bank of the Estrella River Estuary where over 300 types of birds have been observed. The scent of tropical flowers filled the air as we strolled around the grounds and into their small patch of tropical forest. High in the guava trees were groups of howler monkeys that let out incredible whooping sounds whenever a truck rolled by. It seemed so prehistoric; we were expecting to see a raptor appear around the next enormous root.

Then there was "Buttercup". She was the first sloth to come into Judy and Luis's care 10 years ago. "Someone had found her abandoned by the road and brought her to us", Judy explained. "We knew next to nothing about sloths, but managed to nurse Buttercup back to health." They are now two of the world's leading sloth experts.

Costa Rica has both two-toed and three-toed sloths. Two-toed sloths are light brown and have charming, seal-like faces, while three-toed sloths have the characteristic raccoon-like stripe around their eyes and a whimsical grin. Both types of sloths move as if in a tai-chi class--deliberate and in slow motion.

Sloths spend most of their lives upside down in the trees and most of that time sleeping-an average of 15 hours a day. They seldom come down to the ground-only to move to a different tree or to defecate (every 7-8 days). Camouflage in the canopy is their main form of protection, although they can also defend themselves with their sharp nails. Sloths can live to an old age of 30.

One of the volunteers at the sanctuary introduced us to the 20 sloths currently in their care. There's Juliet, the two-toed sloth, found electrocuted by a power line and Zephyr-the escape artist-- a three-toed sloth that was orphaned. Each animal is personified and their sad stories told to visitors. With the expertise of Judy and Luis, they are all fed, nursed and loved. Eventually, for those sloths who are able, they return to their lives in the trees. They have a graduated return in the small jungle with radio collars. Slowly, they venture farther and farther away.

The Arroyo's have established a "Buttercup Foundation" to educate the public about environmental issues and to buy more land for wildlife protection. They have created school programs in Costa Rica and abroad for visits to the sanctuary, a scholarship fund for veterinary students and a sloth research center at Aviarios. They are very proud of the world's first successful mating and birth in captivity, outside of a zoo.

Many of the sloths at Aviarios are destined for return to the wild, so guests aren't allowed any contact with them. But they do allow visitors to hold Buttercup. We were told to place her on our hip like a baby and to hold out one finger so she could hold on with her three long nails. Even though the fur looked coarse, she was quite soft and cuddly. It's impossible not to smile while holding a sloth.

As dusk fell and we were sipping Imperial beer on the porch, dozens of white snowy egrets and herons came to roost in the nearby trees. We felt a galaxy away from our urban life as the birds sang their evening song. After dinner, Juan, the security guard, shone his flashlight on the inky river. Dozens of yellow eyes stared back as the caimans or small crocodiles poked their heads up out of the water. We were lulled to sleep by the night sounds of the jungle broken by the occasional high-pitched squeal of a sloth.

After a 5:30 a.m. wake-up call and a cup of delicious Costa Rican coffee, we began our four-hour canoe trip on the Estrella River. (Most tours and bus departures are insanely early in Costa Rica). The morning gently unfolded as Cali, our guide paddled us along. The serenity was disturbed by a frantic flapping of wings as a bird took to the air. We saw many herons and egrets, scarlet tanagers and the beautiful, iridescent blue morpho butterfly. We were even lucky enough to see a wild sloth in the canopy. Soon we could hear the pounding Atlantic surf as we stopped at Cali's friend's house for fresh young coconut juice. The heat of mid-morning and the rumbling of our stomachs broke the enchanted spell as we returned to the lodge. We enjoyed a breakfast of fresh fruit, cheese omelette and coffee.

After an adios to the sloths, our next stop was Cahuita, a small village ten km south of the sanctuary. We relaxed at the rustic Cabinas Jenny a few meters away from the Atlantic Ocean, content in our hammocks. The town is bracketed by two beaches--one a deserted, black sand beach and one jungle-lined leading to Cahuita National Park. Each day started with French-Canadian crepes and ended with the delicious catch of the day. One visit to Costa Rica is not enough-- there are countless beaches and national parks to explore, not to mention the myriad of volunteer opportunities. To do something completely different, try hugging a sloth-you 'll never forget it.

IF YOU GO.

Getting there:
To Costa Rica - Major U.S. airlines have direct flights from Vancouver or Toronto to San Jose via several U.S. cities. Visitors need only a valid passport.

To Aviarios del Caribe - In San José, direct buses leave from the Gran Terminal del Caribe bus station (on Calle Central between Avenida 11 &13) several times a day. Take the bus to Sixaola and ask the driver to let you off at Aviarios del Caribe, 30 km south of Limon.

Staying there:
Aviarios del Caribe -The six rooms are nicely decorated and spacious with fans. Prices are $110-140 Cdn. (double) plus taxes and includes full breakfast. Less expensive rooms can be found at Cahuita, 10 km south of the sanctuary. They tend to be more rustic and are $23-45 Cdn. (double).